On one facet of the lake, lovers glide on canoes, pals journey jet-skis and households pose for footage within the hazy sundown. On the opposite facet, lower than two miles away, lifeless our bodies washed ashore whereas ammunition and discarded weapons littered the water.
The shore of Lake Kivu in Rwanda provides leisure and rest. Throughout the border within the Democratic Republic of Congo, the identical lake displayed devastation and distress after an armed group known as M23 captured the lakeside metropolis of Goma final month. Almost 3,000 folks have been killed within the January offensive, in line with the United Nations.
“It’s peaceable right here, in contrast to over there,” mentioned Exauce Shalako, a 20-year-old man from Goma who was lounging on the shore of Lake Kivu in Rwanda one afternoon this month. Mr. Shalako, who mentioned he had misplaced a pal within the combating, had crossed into Rwanda for a day on the seaside. “We have to unwind, to have a change of scene,” he mentioned.
However whereas Rwanda seems peaceable at house, it’s fueling struggle throughout the border. 1000’s of Rwandan troops have invaded jap Congo alongside fighters from M23, which is beneath Rwanda’s management, in line with the US and United Nations consultants. Rwanda denies backing the rebels.
To cross from Goma to its sister metropolis Gisenyi in Rwanda takes simply minutes by land, however the two locations really feel worlds aside. In Gisenyi, a city of fifty,000, restaurant house owners adorn their beachfront properties with colourful decorations because the scent of roasted rooster fills the air. In Goma, a metropolis of two million, the stench of demise and the sounds of sirens wafted over the streets for days.
The neighboring international locations share a painful historical past however have little in frequent today.
Rwanda is seen as a mannequin of growth throughout Africa. A rustic practically 90 instances smaller than Congo, it sponsors prime European soccer groups and is understood for its high-end resorts, the place prosperous vacationers keep throughout expeditions to marvel at gorillas. Being right here may give an impression of political stability and affluence, however many say beneath that veneer lies widespread surveillance, repression and unequal growth.
Congo, regardless of its dizzying pure sources, stays stricken by instability. Its jap area is house to one of many world’s largest displacement crises, courting again to the aftermath of the Rwandan genocide 30 years in the past.
“The dwelling requirements are so totally different,” mentioned Théoneste Bitangimana, a Rwandan actual property agent and pastor who lives in Gisenyi and works on either side of the border. “In Congo the wealthy get richer and the federal government doesn’t care. In Rwanda we’re consistently making an attempt to enhance the way in which we reside.”
The Congolese have a special means of describing the wealth hole between the 2 nations: exploitation.
United Nations consultants discovered that 150 tons of coltan — from which key minerals utilized in smartphone manufacturing are extracted — was smuggled out of Congo and into Rwanda by M23 final yr.
“We’re being looted for others to get wealthy,” mentioned Didier Kambale, a pastor in Goma strolling on a debris-littered avenue this month. “Why are they coming right here?” he requested about Rwandan troops. “Do Congolese wage struggle overseas?”
Although Rwanda’s chief has mentioned that the struggle in jap Congo is a Congolese drawback, the M23 offensive on Goma introduced it one step nearer to Rwanda.
In its try to defend Goma, the Congolese military launched shells and bombs throughout the border in January, puncturing Rwandan houses and tearing roofs open. Sixteen folks have been killed and 160 injured in Rwanda. 1000’s of individuals fleeing Goma discovered refuge in Rwanda.
Shattered glass and wooden nonetheless littered the flooring as rain fell into Mr. Bitangimana’s house this month. A shell had hit the roof of the true property agent’s brick and cement home.
“We’re praying for the 2 international locations, as a result of we have to reside in concord,” he mentioned.
In Gisenyi, kids in school now discuss of the struggle between Rwanda’s president, Paul Kagame, and his Congolese counterpart, Felix Tshisekedi.
“I don’t choose a facet, it’s too sophisticated,” mentioned Ariella, a 10-year-old dwelling in Rwanda with a Congolese father and a Rwandan mom. Sitting at her house yards away from the border, Ariella mentioned she performed lifeless in her mattress for hours one morning throughout the M23 offensive, fearing troopers would possibly “come to kill us.” The combating paused shortly after.
Regardless of the 2 totally different worlds on all sides of Lake Kivu’s shores, the seaside in Gisenyi can also be the place folks from Rwanda and Congo collect in peace. Mr. Shalako, the 20-year-old, mentioned he crossed the border to inform his Rwandan pals that he was protected.
“Politicians wish to make us consider that we’re enemies, however we’re brothers,” he mentioned.
In her lounge, Ariella stopped her math homework to debate the struggle. She mentioned she was longing to go to her aunt who lives in Goma on her upcoming trip, and “do every kind of foolish issues over there.”
Sitting in her Spider-Man pajamas, Ariella requested a query in regards to the presidents from each international locations that left a silence within the room: “Why can’t they only make peace?”
